Versasio crag

The Versasio crag is a true ‘classic’ for climbing enthusiasts in Lecco. Set in a picturesque setting amongst the woods on the slopes of Mount Resegone, this crag offers spectacular views stretching from the Grigne mountains to the waters of Lake Como.

History and characteristics of the crag

The first explorations of the crag date back to the early 1980s, with mountaineering-style routes established by Paolo Vitali, Luigi Fantoni and Don Agostino Butturini. In 1986, Delfino Formenti equipped the entire crag for sport climbing, making it one of the most popular destinations in the area.

The rock, a weathered limestone, requires technical climbing that is often challenging to interpret, featuring a mix of notches, flared holes and endurance moves. Given the technical nature of the routes, the crag is not considered suitable for beginners.

The sectors of the Versasio Crag

The crag is divided into four distinct sectors, each offering a different climbing experience thanks to the varied rock formations.

You can start by exploring the Silverado sector, a true temple of verticality, where climbers can test their skills on splendid walls characterised by drops and slats that demand precision and technique. For those seeking a more physical and continuous challenge, the Avalon sector offers imposing, slightly overhanging walls; here the climbing becomes more intense, with long endurance sequences unfolding between notches and holes.

If you prefer multi-pitch routes, the Western sector is the ideal choice: it offers short routes (up to three pitches) on superbly formed rock, rich in ‘nuchi’, blades and notches. Given the nature of these routes, however, it is essential to be well versed in abseiling manoeuvres. Finally, for those who love a real challenge, there’s the overhanging wall of Mustrulend, home to the most intense and physically demanding routes on the entire crag.

Technical Information

Altitude: 690 metres.
Aspect: West (the sun hits the rock around 12.30).
Difficulty: 5b to 7c+.
Number of pitches: approximately 70
Route lengths: from 25–30 metres up to 60 metres for multi-pitch routes.
Equipment: 10mm stainless steel bolts and abseil carabiners
Rope: 70 m. 80 m for the left-hand pitches in the Avalon sector.

When to climb at Versasio

The ideal time to visit the crag is during the shoulder seasons (spring and autumn). In summer, it is advisable to climb in the morning to avoid the heat, before the sun hits the face in the early afternoon. In winter, it is cold and the rock can take a long time to dry out after rain.

How to get there

To reach the crag from Lecco, follow the signs for the Piani d’Erna cable car to the car park on Via Prealpi (subject to a charge on public holidays). From the car park, take path no. 18 towards Passo del Cammello and follow the trail until you reach the right-hand edge of the crag. The approach on foot takes around 25–30 minutes.