Versasio crag
A great classic of Lecco-style climbing between the Resegone and Lake Como
Lecco is regarded as one of the undisputed capitals of sport climbing in northern Italy. Its reputation stems not only from its extraordinary natural heritage – where the limestone cliffs of the Grigne and the Resegone meet the waters of Lake Como – but also from a climbing history stretching back more than a century. Here, climbing is deeply ingrained in the local identity: these cliffs have served as a training ground for legends of international mountaineering such as Riccardo Cassin, Walter Bonatti and Casimiro Ferrari, as well as the legendary Ragni di Lecco group.
Today, the area offers a veritable ‘vertical playground’ with over a hundred equipped crags and thousands of routes to suit every taste and ability. Whether you’re looking for technical slabs, overhanging walls or introductory routes for your first steps on the vertical, Lecco offers breathtaking scenery and is often very easy to reach.
Situated within Monte Barro Park, the Galbiate crag is one of the most popular and much-loved in the area, thanks to its short approach path and stunning views over the Brianza lakes. It is a historic site characterised by technical slab climbing on weathered rock. With grades ranging from 5a to 8a, it offers sectors to suit everyone: from the introductory pitches in the Oasi and Quattro Tracce sectors (ideal for beginners), to the long, aesthetic lines of the Placconata, right through to the explosive routes on the Muro Giallo. Its south-west-facing aspect makes it an ideal destination for the shoulder seasons and winter days.
Perched on the slopes of Mount Resegone, the Versasio crag is a timeless classic offering spectacular views over Lake Como. It is renowned for the variety of its sectors: these range from the vertical slabs with drops and reglettes of Silverado to the slightly overhanging walls of Avalon, where good endurance is required. For those seeking longer routes, the Western sector offers short three-pitch routes on excellent rock. With technical grades ranging from 5b to 7c+, Versasio is a demanding crag, recommended for climbers who already have good technical experience.
A veritable pilgrimage site for climbers, Sasso di Introbio is where the first bolt-protected routes in the Lecco area appeared in 1981. The area is inextricably linked to the figure of Don Agostino Butturini and his Condor Group, who have used these rocks for educational purposes since the 1970s. The style here is unique: a climb requiring balance and precision on smooth slabs marked by small notches and ‘letterbox holes’. The area comprises several sectors, including the Pala Condor (more complex routes), the Pilastrini (easy to moderate routes featuring holes and ridges) and the Gran Placca, a former quarry with routes requiring extreme friction climbing. Access is extremely convenient, just a few minutes’ walk from the car park.
For beginners or families, the Placchette del San Martino are the ideal spot. Situated above the hamlet of Rancio, along the path to the Piazza Mountain Hut, these two formations of solid white limestone offer enjoyable climbing on generally modest grades. The rock is full of holes and ridges, making the movements intuitive and enjoyable. Divided into the Right and Left Sectors, they feature routes ranging from grade 2c to 6c, allowing for a gradual and safe introduction to natural rock climbing in a cool, scenic setting.
Best time of year: The shoulder seasons are ideal for most sites. In winter, south-facing walls are climbed (such as those at Galbiate or Introbio), whilst in summer, north-facing slopes or higher altitudes are preferred.
Training venues and indoor facilities: In the event of rain or bad weather, you can train at the climbing centre run by the Ragni di Lecco club, located in the town; it’s an excellent place to meet the local climbing community and get technical advice.
A great classic of Lecco-style climbing between the Resegone and Lake Como
Lecco’s iconic mountains: a paradise just a few yards from the city.
From summit ascents to archaeological trails: trekking through nature, history and biodiversity
Ask us, we will give you suggestions and directions to enjoy the city and the surrounding area to the fullest.
Contact us